Training update

It”s time to give a brief update. I had three good weeks of training, with some climbing over the weekend. I usually did 7b’ish routes, working on my onsight skills.  I did two session finger strength and two sessions body strength each week. The fourth week I took off to get the recovery I desperately needed. In the following weeks I try to get back into bouldering, but I will continue doing push-ups and shoulder exercises to prevent injury in the winter.

Back on it

After three weeks off climbing and training  I’m back into it for a few days. A nasty pain in my shoulder was the main reason for the break, but as I intend to have a few weeks off every year anyway it was not too bad. I spend the time with endurance training (running, biking) and easy strength work for my shoulder (I did those). The shoulder feels much better now even though I still avoid moves which put too much force on it. Continue reading


I feel somewhat tired these days. Children, work, training, bouldering, all gets a bit too much. This weekend saw me alone with the kids, but still I was planning to get two days of bouldering in anyway. Last weekend I also had two days out bouldering, and I also took both kids with me. However, I still haven’t got the right mindset for those days.  Basically, I should have no expectations and be happy when I get even an hour of bouldering. However, what I did  was that I was psyched and had boulders in mind which I wanted to climb. When things went wrong (i.e. I felt off for whatever reason) I quickly get in a bad mood. Things like “Oh dad, I need to shit” when you sit on the start of the problem, already chalked up and ready to go got my mood even worse. So on order to avoid this situations I really need to get the “you are bouldering with your kids” mindset back. I think I’ve learned that finally this weekend so hopefully this will improve.

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